...And why did we choose to settle here?
Why do we celebrate Midsummer – one of our most important tradition, involving herring, strawberries and a lot of alcohol – by dancing around a pole decorated with spring leaves and flowers, jumping over fences, and dancing to “little frogs” in Sweden?
Many believe that we have celebrated the solstice – longest day of the year – since beginning of times, honoring nature, the fertility of the earth and the light. There seems to be little evidence of how this might have been done, though, but is part of the Scandinavian souls.
Swedish midsummer tradition says you should pick 7 types of wildflowers, jump over a couple of countryside fences and then put your flowers under your pillow (preferably naked). You will then dream of your future love/wife/husband and it will all come true! I am not sure people do that anymore, now there is probably an app to do this instead…
Today’s way of celebrating is modern, roughly from the mid-1800s, when the middle class launched a celebration with dancing around a maypole in the form of a leafy cross. Before that, it was mainly something peasants did, with a leafy pole, sometimes with rings around the trunk. Dancing may have occurred, more questionable. However, the first evidence of Midsummer celebrations is at least from the 1500s, although it probably appeared already when we were Christianized.
Today there is very little left of the original Christian celebration of Johannes (San Juan). In Sweden, Midsummer Eve’s fixed date was June 23, but in 1953 it was it would always fall on a Friday between June 20 and 26 to better fit into the work week.
Midsummer in Finland is celebrated with sauna, Midsummer bonfires, meals with new potatoes, herring, and the year’s first strawberries (like in Sweden). The maypole is rarer. In Norway and Denmark, St. Hans is celebrated with games, songs, and lit bonfires, something we have previously seen in western Sweden.
Night of San Juan on Costa Tropical: Here it is the night of June 23 to 24 that the same San Juan (Johannes) is celebrated with popular festivities and bonfires. According to tradition, by throwing old belongings into the fire, we free ourselves from bad luck and leave behind all the unpleasant things that have happened during the year. Another rite of this celebration involves washing one’s face with sea water at midnight. I also heard that in Almuñecar there is usually a pissing contest in the sea after midnight – not sure it is true? Birgitta, one of members who arrived in Almuñecar in 1980, recalls the bonfires, beach BBQs and partying until early morning hours back then – and with far less littering on the beach!
Why do Scandinavians like to settle in Almuñecar or around the Costa Tropical? I asked my friends on the board of Los Nórdicos what their reasons are, here comes a summary: The light, the sun, the sea, thousands of years of culture, affordability – much cheaper than back home – great food, friendly people, wonderful flowers and nature, mountains, tasty fruits and vegetables. And still very Spanish (contrary to many places around the Costa del Sol, overtaken by tourists and guiris). Monica added: “The main reason I love Almuñecar is that the town is still ‘Spanish’ – Swedes, Germans, French and English – have not taken over…” Monica said: “Yes, I love the siesta hours, Spanish families, all generations, strolling along the promenade without stress, the chatter from the restaurants when large groups have long lunches, etc.”
Ulf, who restarted our hiking groups and taught us all how to use ChatGPT, thinks: “It is a carefree life and relaxed lifestyle. What could be improved are the opportunities to walk and bike away from the roads, for instance towards the Salobreña area.” Ann-Marie, who lives permanently here (like me), added: “The city’s 3000-year history and its unique old town. Beautiful beaches and swimming in the Mediterranean and proximity to skiing in the Sierra Nevada. An abundance of attractions in the area, including hiking and biking. A vast cultural offering and many fantastic restaurants that provide gastronomic experiences. A comfortably sized city with a pleasant pace. Peace and quiet for those who want it, but plenty of activities for those who prefer that. A paradise!”
Annette summarised, “Almuñecar is:
• Authentic and not completely overrun by “migratory birds” (tourists) -mostly Spanish tourists during summer.
• A suitably sized town (everything is within walking distance).
• La Casa de Cultura has a lot of good things, shows at least once per week.
• Friendly people, both Spanish and tourists.
• Unsnobbish.
• Fantastic with art and sculptures in public spaces
• Good service regarding waste and the town is clean, the beaches are clean and well maintained.
• Covers most needs in town, you can buy locally basically everything, with banks, hardware store, butcher, fish markets, fruit shops, etc.
• Charm and visible history – well informed with signs (could be even better signs marking historic routes).
Suggestions for improvement:
• The speed of traffic over the Rio Verde bridge and other coast roads – too dangerous: and now they seem to want to reduce the road bumps instead of making it more difficult to speed and “fly” over the bridge with motorcycles and cars.
• Jet skis create unnecessary noise at times – but not often.
• More sorting containers (the old town has none).
• Composting (collecting food waste) from households and restaurants would produce a lot of good soil.
• Increase access to original version cinema (I miss movies in English) with subtitles” The new Cineclub – Asociacion Cineclub Sexi Firmum de Almuñecar – launched in January 2025, aims at showing at least one original film per week at Casa de la Cultura. Everyone interested should join the club.
It is sad that there are so many empty houses and apartments along the coast, when so many local residents can´t afford or find decent homes.
Why have you chosen to settle on the Costa Tropical?
Los Nordicos-Almuñecar (Costa Tropical) is an Association of more than 500 Scandinavians, independent from politics and religion, with the purpose to supporting each other and to build bridges with the Spanish society. Check our website if you want to join: www.losnordicos.com.
(Feature: Los Nórdicos, Andalucia, Granada, Costa Tropical, Almuñécar)
Keywords: Sweden, Finland, Midsummer Festivals, Why We Live Here, Los Nórdicos
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