Now is the time when the Spanish landscape dresses up in bright yellow colours. In Taramay, the streets are lined with luscious Mimosa trees in full bloom. Meadows and valleys are covered with the frail, but fierce Buttercup Oxalis. In spite of its modest appearance, this “weed” proves to be very resistant when invading lawns and herbacious borders. To me, the little buttercup is a sign that summer is on its way, and it is time for us Nordics to say farewell to our beloved Almuñécar to return to our Nordic home lands.
For our club, Los Nordicos, this means that another busy and interesting season will be put behind us. The Spring season has been full of activities, with interesting talks on Spanish politics and the Spanish way of life, information on typically Spanish foods and healthy Mediterranean diets,
We have been treated to Flamenco, schnapps songs with tapas, an introduction to mindfulness, a musical quiz and the traditional Spring party to round up the successful spring season of 2014. The travel, golf, boule, trekking and bingo have been in full swing. The Spanish lessons and the jazz circle have been attended by many enthusiastic members.
The club has participated in welfare through Cáritas, donating means to help those in need in this time of crisis. During the season, the number of club members has reached 340.
Now, we look forward to the absolute highlight of the year, the Holy Week, or Semana Santa, one of the most extraordinary parts of the cultural agenda of Andalucía. The most spectacular processions take place in Seville and Málaga, but all towns and villages celebrate Easter with processions. The Holy Week in Almuñécar and Nerja are, by tradition, very elaborate, moving and beautiful events.
For those who are not initiated, the Spanish Easter processions can be a bit confusing. It’s good to know a little prior to the event:
The local brass band accompanies the procession, with slow and solemn music, except on Palm Sunday and Eastern Sunday when it´s more upbeat to match the happier occasion. The Almuñecar brass band practices on the Friday Market Place many months before the event, much to the annoyance of those living nearby.
Local religious associations called brotherhoods, (hermandades or cofradías) look after the statues and floats of the processions. It is an honour to belong to one of the brotherhoods and membership is traditionally passed down the family.
There are usually two floats, tronos or pasos, decorated with flowers and candles, in each procession, one with a statue of Christ and one with Virgin Mary in mourning. Each float is weighing several tonnes . The floats are carried by members of the brotherhoods, the< costaleros standing on each side of the float, and walking along supporting it on their shoulders. Because of the weight, they can usually walk only a few paces before having to rest. This is the reason why processions can last until the wee hours of the morning.
The nazarenos are men, women and children dressed in dark robes parading in front of the floats, usually carrying a candle or a lantern. They also wear a long pointed hat that covers their face, with just two slits for their eyes. One of our grandchildren, when seeing these figures exclaimed: “Look Ku Klux Klan!” I have later heard that it is believed that those villains adopted the outfit after having seen it during Easter in Spain.
On Easter Sunday, the nazarenos dress in green, red or white.
The penitents are men and women dressed in black (the women usually wearing a black lace mantilla) carrying lighted candles and rosaries, and walking in front or behind the float. Those doing actual penitence walk barefoot or even crawl along on their knees.
The Saeta is an improvised song, part of the flamenco cante hondo genre in honour of the statues, and sung by a spectator when the floats get to certain points in the itinerary. This is one of the most moving parts of the procession.
This year the Holy Week is between the 13th and the 20th of April.
Happy Easter. Enjoy the sun!
