By the time this column reaches, you the Bruja will have a lot of duff wines before one is chosen for recommendation. Duff, not because they are off, but rather that they don’t reach a quality threshold to merit a public recommendation. 

Tierra de Cadiz,  Merlot 70%, Syrah 15%, Petit Verdot 15%

Yet what makes a wine a good wine is very subjective, as much as we might wish to make it less so. For example, you might have noticed that we often recommend wines made from originally French varieties. 

This month’s wine is sort of an Andalusian Bordeaux from Bodegas Luis Pérez, a family-winery of Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz. It is part of the larger Andalusian wine-producing area and has unique characteristics due to its proximity to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean, with its vineyards stretching out along the coastline. 

The Region was awarded Vino de la Tierra status in 2005 and is working on its application for promotion to DO status.  The landscape is diverse, featuring rolling hills, valleys, and flat coastal plains. The region is well known for its beautiful coastal scenery, which influences both the climate and the terroir. The weather in Cádiz is characterised by a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and hot, dry summers. However, the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean moderates the temperature, providing a more temperate environment compared to other southern Spanish wine regions. 

Tintilla de Rota, a native grape variety of Andalusia is known for producing deeply coloured wines with intense aromas of red fruits, floral notes, and a touch of spice, traditionally used for sweet fortified wines. Bodegas Luis Pérez emphasises the revival of Tintilla de Rota and exploring the potential of Cádiz’s unique climate and soils.

Garum is one of the bodegas flagship wines, named after the ancient Roman fish sauce once produced in the region. The classification wine of the Tierra de Cádiz encompasses non-sherry wines from the province of Cádiz. Garum is a blend of Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and a small amount of Tintilla de Rota.

Garum is deep, intense ruby-red colour with an almost opaque core, and a slight purple rim that hints at its youth and vibrancy. When swirled in the glass, the wine shows a lovely depth, with slow, well-defined tears hinting at its richness and structure.

The nose is dominated by Merlot with its ripe red and black fruits like plum, blackberry, and cherry. The Syrah contributes a subtle spiciness with hints of black pepper and a touch of violet floral notes. Petit Verdot adds depth with earthy undertones, a hint of graphite, and a touch of dark chocolate. The Syrah contributes a subtle spiciness with hints of black pepper and a touch of violet floral notes.

We had a 2019 bottle where the years had added soft vanilla, toasted oak, and sweet baking spices. In the mouth an aromatic wine with rich and structured, with velvety tannins and a long, flavorful finish.

Have it with grilled meats, Jamón Iberico, or mature cheeses. Serve at 14ºC with a fresh salad, cheese and jamón.

88-90 Bruja points.  EUR 13.90 from the Bodega also available at Olivares in Almuñécar.

(Feature: Wine of the Month)

Keywords: Wine: Bodegas Luis Perez, Garum, Tierra de Cadiz,  Merlot 70%, Syrah 15%, Petit Verdot 15%

feature, wine of the month, bodegas luis perez, garum, tierra de cadiz,  merlot, syrah, petit verdot