Rioja DOCa sits along the Ebro Valley, where Atlantic air from the west meets warmer Mediterranean influences, with mountains on either side tempering extremes and giving the region its long, steady growing season. 

This mix of weather, altitude and soils—limestone, clay and iron-rich earth—helps explain why Rioja has been able to produce reliable, age-worthy wines for generations, earning Spain’s top classification, Denominación de Origen Calificada (a status shared only with Priorat DOCa).

Within Rioja, those conditions shift subtly from place to place: Rioja Alta is cooler and higher, giving wines a fresher feel; Rioja Alavesa adds lift and structure from its limestone slopes; while Rioja Oriental is warmer and drier, bringing riper fruit and weight. 

Tempranillo thrives across all three and forms the backbone of most Riojas, usually with smaller amounts of Garnacha, Graciano or Mazuelo. The familiar terms Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva mainly tell you how long the wine has been aged—Crianza seeing the least time in barrel and bottle, Reserva more, and Gran Reserva the longest, typically only in standout years.

Within these shared rules and landscapes, Rioja leaves plenty of room for different hands and philosophies, from large, long-established houses to more personal expressions—something we’ll come back to when we look at Muriel.

One of the reasons Rioja DOCa remains so relevant is the sheer range of bodegas working within it. At one end are the big, historic names, producing huge volumes and exporting all over the world; at the other, small growers focused on single villages or even single plots. In between sits a large group of mid-sized, long-established wineries that quietly form the backbone of Rioja—making wines that stick closely to the region’s traditions, are widely available, and are meant to be opened and enjoyed rather than overthought. 

It’s within this broad middle ground that Muriel belongs, and understanding that helps place its wines in context. The winery is based in Elciego, in Rioja Alavesa, and works mainly with Tempranillo, alongside smaller amounts of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, sourced from vineyards in Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta.

Muriel’s range is a classic one, covering Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva styles, and the wines are made with everyday drinking in mind rather than chasing extremes. They tend to show clean, ripe fruit, sensible use of oak, and a style that feels comfortable and familiar rather than flashy. It’s the kind of Rioja many people grew up drinking, and a good starting point before looking more closely at one bottle in particular: the Muriel Reserva Viña de Elciego 2019.

The award-winning Muriel Reserva Viña de Elciego 2019 is made from Tempranillo grown around Elciego, on clay-limestone soils that are low in organic matter. These poorer soils naturally limit vine vigour, which tends to give smaller yields and more concentrated grapes rather than lots of leafy growth.

The Tempranillo comes from vines of around 35 years of age, trained partly in traditional vaso and partly on trellises, a mix that reflects both older vineyard practices and more modern management. 

The wine follows a classic Reserva path, with around two years in a combination of French and American oak, followed by further ageing in bottle. In the glass, it shows a clear clean ruby colour with faint brick-toned edges, the sign of time spent ageing.

On the nose, ripe red fruit—cherry and red plum—sits alongside familiar oak notes of vanilla, sweet spice, coffee and a hint of coconut. On the palate, while well integrated, the fruits give room for more oak flavours, smooth acidity and soft tannins, with enough firmness to remind you this is a Reserva, but without feeling heavy or demanding. Lingering silky finish.

This is a very elegant Rioja that, while it recognises its traditions and history, stands out for itself. Exceptional value for money for its quality. Perfectly enjoyable on its own, but will shine at the table, particularly with lamb, grilled meats or slow-cooked dishes. 

Very good value for money. Serve at 16C. 93 Seaside Gazette points, 11.90EUR from Olivares in Almunecar 

(Feature/Wine: Muriel Reserva 2019 – DOCa Rioja)

Keywords: La Bruja, Feature, wines, Rioja, Wine of the Month