This month we continue with our pledge to write more reviews of local wines, and we are delighted to present two wines by Bodegas Señorío de Nevada.

Bronce (red) and Atalayar (White) D.O. Granada.

Señorío de Nevada is a 21 hectares estate in the Lecrín Valley, 40km from the coast, with stunning views over the Sierra Nevada on the west, and Tuscany-like, rolling hills on the east.

The influence of the sea on the one hand and the high Sierras on the other give it a unique microclimate resulting in singular wines.

Fifteen hectares of the estate are planted with the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Garnacha, Viognier and the rather rare white grape, Vigiriego.

While some of these varieties are associated with the Mediterranean, others, particularly the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot are more associated with Bordeaux wines, where the Atlantic influence dominates. So making wines with these varieties this far south is like having a ‘Bordeaux by the Med,’ which should allow for riper berries and thus more lively fruit-forward wines.

Señorío de Nevada operates an interesting model complementing its small production winery (80,000 bottles a year) with a hotel, a restaurant, an event centre and multilingual wine tourism, taking full advantage of its very privileged position.

Under the label Señorío de Nevada, there are five wines: the award winning Bronce and Oro, Bordeaux-style Cabernet-Sauvignon-based blends, Plata, a Syrah-based blend, a Rose from Garnacha, and a most intriguing white from Viognier and Vijiriego, which we will save for future review.

Atalayar, a newcomer to the family, about to be released is a 100% Vigiriego. The winery also hosts an exclusive Barrel Club, where individuals or organisations buy and keep entire 225-litre barrels (300 standard bottles) for their exclusive use, and potentially own label; a very good proposition for special occasions.

So far, we have tried two wines, Bronce and Atalayar wines.

Atalayar
It is not often that we get the chance to review a wine before it hits the market, and this one was a delight. Atalaya is a type of fortification for surveillance and military observations, or a vigilance tower.

Vigiriego is an old, white grape, some attribute it to the Arabs of Andalucia, and it was widely planted in Granada until it almost disappeared due to the Phylloxera epidemic that hit European vines at the end of the 19th century.
Señorío de Nevada is collaborating on interesting conservation projects to revive and reestablish the grape in the region.

The grape is also grown in the Canary islands of El Hierro and Tenerife. Vigiriega grapes are high in sugar and acidity, its wines are fruity but not too aromatic, with notes of green apple, pear, citrous fruits and fennel. Atalayar is pale to medium straw with a twinge of green, clear and bright.

The nose is crisp, fresh with ripe stone fruit, apple and citrus, a hint of lime zest and fennel. The crispiness and freshness are notable on the palette, with long acidity, and scrumptious moreish minerality, thanks to the proximity to the coast. It fills the mouth without being heavy.

A truly delicious wine and a welcome addition to serious quality white wines from near the coast.

Atalayar is a wine that calls for seafood: ceviche; tartar of corvina; no frills lubina or calamar a la plancha, but will also goes very well with a tortilla de patata or pimiento de padrón. Serve chilled.

(90–92 Bruja points) €10.00-€12.00 EUR; will be available from Olivares and from the vineyard pedidos@senoriodenevada.es

Bronce
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Garnacha, Tempranillo aged for 12 months in French and American-oak barrels, i.e. a Crianza in the traditional Spanish classification. Bronce is radiant deep cherry red with violet hues and long legs, or tears, suggesting a hefty alcohol content.

Rich vibrant aromas of well ripe black fruit, jammy plums, figs and blackberry, toasted spices, and a whiff of green pepper. In the mouth, smooth persistent fruit flavours, full-bodied, with long lasting, well-balanced tannins and acidity. The green-pepper signature of the Cabernet Sauvignon noticeable towards the end. An elegant wine that does not break the bank.

We opened the bottle 30 minute before we tried it, chilled it slightly, and had it at 15C. A versatile wine that combines well with food. Try with a meaty pizza, dulce de membrillo and cheese tapas, or pasta with cheesy sauce.

(88-90 Bruja points) €8.00 – €9.00 from Olivares in Almuñécar or directly from the vineyard pedidos@senoriodenevada.es

(News/Feature: Wine)